Truffle Mash

Every year, we eagerly anticipate the start of black truffle season. Truffles are known as "le diamant noir" in Provence, a name that truly reflects the value and rarity of this exquisite mushroom – a product of sheer magic. The season runs from November to early March, with the most fragrant truffles typically found from mid-December to January. I dream of experiencing a winter's day in Carpentras, which hosts one of the largest truffle markets in France during this period. Finding this market is all about trusting your sense of smell. Picture the scene: it's 8:30 on a Friday morning. The town at the foot of Mont Ventoux awakens under a misty sky, chilled by a frosty embrace. At the café on the square, a group wearing berets and with mysterious pouches gathers, sipping steaming espressos and engaging in lively conversation. As you approach, the air becomes filled with a potent and enduring aroma, gently teasing your senses. At 8:45, the master of ceremonies, dressed in black from head to toe, signals the start of trading. The participants busily whisper, gesture, sniff, rub and examine the truffles. In just fifteen minutes, the traders depart with their treasure in hand. At that moment, it's hard to fully grasp the experience. But during this brief time, the price is set, starting at 800 euros per kilogram for a decent truffle weighing 30–60 grams. Trading then moves back to the café, where the truffles are meticulously weighed and the thickness of the wad of banknotes is determined. It would be wonderful to join a truffle hunt organised by La Truffe du Ventoux, where appetites run wild, then return to the farm for a communal dinner in front of a crackling fireplace to enjoy a menu entirely created around truffles, from the amuse bouches to the dessert. A word of caution: fresh truffles have a short shelf life and last only a week, so enjoy them promptly or transport them swiftly. You don't want to experience a mishap like we did where our suitcase and hotel fridge were filled with the scent, only to return home to find the truffles shrivelled and dried.