True French and British Cuisine
Potato Gratin
As I slowly open my eyes in a homely Victorian house in North London, I find myself in a dream-like state. Memories of Lyon and its enchanting restaurants linger in my mind – a fleeting vision I wish to hold on to. I recall being asked about the secret to the perfect gratin, a question that had eluded me amidst the busyness of life until these serene "homey" weekends unfolded. We didn't go outside due to the weather, with the rain and wind creating a symphony of sounds. Darkness enveloped both day and night, while the wind danced playfully on the fragile English windows. Seeking warmth and comfort, we lit an improvised fire – a video playing on the TV screen in front of the dormant hearth. Amidst the crackling of logs and purring of the cat on the sofa, the children immersed in their gadgets and my husband lost in his computer, I found solace in the kitchen. Recalling the gratin recipe taught to me by my favourite French teacher during our early days in France, I embarked on preparing a meal, pairing honey and soy sauce-glazed chicken with gratin dauphinois. The familiar aroma filled the kitchen, evoking memories of culinary adventures past! The children are often reluctant to leave their screens and gather at the table. However, once they took the first bite, they eagerly devoured the entire plate. I wish there were more of these gloomy homey days!
Method
- 1Use a mandoline for thin, uniform potato slices. Avoid washing the potatoes after slicing to retain the starch for binding.
- 2Crush the garlic and use it to grease the baking dish along with some butter.
- 3Layer the potatoes, season with salt and pepper, and sprinkle grated nutmeg between each layer.
- 4Cover the potatoes with a mixture of whole milk and low-fat cream in a 2:1 ratio. Bake for 2.5 hours at 150°C, ensuring the bottom doesn't burn. Check the potatoes are cooked through using a knife.
What a potato gratin is, and what makes it dauphinois
A gratin is anything baked until the top browns into a crust. A potato gratin is thin slices of potato baked slowly in dairy until they are soft enough to cut with a spoon and the surface is deep golden.
Gratin dauphinois, the version from the Dauphiné region around Grenoble, is made with cream, milk, garlic and nutmeg — and no cheese at all. Add grated cheese and you have a gratin savoyard instead. Both are good; only one is dauphinois.
Use a waxy or all-purpose potato that holds its shape, slice it about 2–3 mm thick on a mandoline, and do not rinse the slices — the starch is what thickens the cream. Instead of the long classic baking time there is a shortcut: parboil the potato for literally 5 minutes in a 1:1 mixture of milk and water, then bake exactly as in the recipe, but only 35 minutes at 190°C — until a knife slides through with no resistance.
The usual mistakes: slices cut too thick, so the middle stays raw; too much liquid, so it never sets; and cutting into it straight from the oven. Let it rest 10–15 minutes and the potato slices will hold their shape.
Potato gratin questions people ask
- Does gratin dauphinois contain cheese?
- No. The traditional recipe is potatoes, cream, milk, garlic and nutmeg. The cheese-topped version is called gratin savoyard.
- How long does a potato gratin take to bake?
- On average about 1 hour to 1 hour 20 minutes at 160–170°C; in my long classic recipe it is 2 hours 30 minutes at 150°C, and the quickest version with a 5-minute parboil in milk takes 35 minutes at 190°C. The gratin is ready when a knife slides in easily and the top is deep golden.
- Which potatoes are best?
- Waxy or all-purpose potatoes that keep their shape when sliced. Very floury potatoes collapse into a purée.
- Should I rinse the potato slices?
- No — the surface starch is what thickens the cream into a sauce. Rinsed slices swim rather than set.
- Can it be made in advance?
- Yes. Bake it, cool it, and reheat covered at 150°C for 20–25 minutes. It is arguably better on the second day.
