Provencal-Style Sea Bream with Tapenade

As the festive season approaches, I select the champagne for New Year's Eve. Let me share my perspective and maybe help you make your decision. My initial thoughts: sticking with the classics – renowned houses like Veuve Clicquot, Dom Pérignon and Louis Roederer. While undeniably excellent, they are also traditional. Year after year, the cellar masters of these big names blend old and new vintages to maintain a consistent taste. Meanwhile, smaller champagne houses craft their own unique blends, making each year's champagne distinct. Here, I am quoting our wine-expert friend from a tasting, where we learnt to appreciate the difference. Not just between mass-produced and artisanal champagne, but also between aged and young vintages. He leans towards champagnes that are around 20 years old. Some may prefer the boldness of young wines, sparkling included, while others find them a bit rough around the edges. Each champagne is unique, even down to the size of the bubbles. Surprisingly, in one case, we discovered a bold aroma of blue cheese mould and a hint of the countryside – uncivilised yet refined, showcasing the vintage's individuality. At a tasting a few years back, we fell in love with Ayala Brut Millésimé 1996 from Côte des Blancs – a region known for producing lively champagnes with delicate aromas, which are both refined and elegant. This time, I'm tempted to try Ayala Brut Millésimé 1999. It's said to pair well with scallop carpaccio or dishes featuring white fish such as turbot, sea bass or sea bream. A delightful addition to a festive menu! And if you're looking for a delicious but different option, a whole sea bream never fails to impress.