Say Cheese
Tartiflette
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I have a fascinating cheese story to share with you – all about Morbier. This cheese is unique, with a rich history and a sophisticated, unconventional aroma. For me, the most expressive cheeses in terms of scent are some Danish varieties that are a challenge to transport as they fill your suitcase with their strong smell and then assert their dominance over everything else in the fridge. Or cheeses with blue mould – not sharp in smell but in taste. Both types have a special allure and many loyal fans. Morbier, however, is intriguing because its taste is subtle and almost creamy, while its aroma is surprisingly robust, especially when aged. A true cheesy conundrum. Morbier originates from a small village of the same name in the French mountain region of Franche-Comté. You can easily identify it by the distinctive horizontal line of wood ash running through the middle. In the past, cheese makers would take that evening's pressed milk, cover it with ash and then add a fresh batch of milk in the morning. Today, this ash layer is a nod to tradition, with the same milk used for both parts. Opinions on such cheeses can vary widely, and sometimes even be polar opposites. Some may think the cheese is spoilt, but that's not the case! Try to embrace the unknown and savour the earthy, animalistic nuances just like we did. Your associations and emotions will surprise you. I personally felt like I was being transported to a deep, musty wine cellar or a rustic farm. Like any other cheese, Morbier should be taken out of the fridge at least half an hour before enjoying. Make it one of the first selections from your cheese board to experience the perfect blend of strength and delicacy. Morbier also plays a prestigious role in a remarkably hearty dish called "morbiflette". This variation of the traditional "tartiflette" involves sautéing onions and bacon with boiled potatoes, then baking them with cheese until melted. Pair it with white wine from the neighbouring Jura region for a satisfying meal. To make a deliciously filling traditional tartiflette for 6 people, you'll need:
Ingredients
- 1.5 kg potatoes
- 500 g smoked bacon
- 3 onions
- 2 tbsp sour cream
- 100 ml dry white wine
- 1 whole wheel of reblochon cheese
- Salt and freshly ground pepper
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Method
- 1Wash and boil the potatoes in their skins until they are just tender, but not overly soft.
- 2Peel and thinly slice the onions.
- 3Fry the bacon in a pan until it releases its fat. Add the onions and sauté until they turn translucent. Pour in the white wine and cook until the liquid evaporates (about 5 minutes). Stir in the sour cream and cook the sauce for another 5 to 6 minutes.
- 4Peel the potatoes, slice them into medium-thick rounds, and mix them with the bacon and onion mixture. Season with pepper.
- 5Transfer the mixture to a large baking dish. Cut the cheese into two circles and place them on top. You can choose to remove the cheese rind if desired for a milder flavour.
- 6Bake in a preheated oven at 190°C for 30 to 40 minutes. Serve hot with a side of fresh salad or green vegetables.
What tartiflette is, and which cheese it needs
Tartiflette is a Savoyard bake of potatoes, smoked bacon (lardons), onions and white wine, covered with a whole reblochon cut through the middle and baked until the cheese melts into everything beneath it.
Reblochon is the point of the dish: a soft washed-rind cow's milk cheese from the Haute-Savoie, mild and nutty, that melts to cream rather than to strings. If you cannot find it, the closest substitutes are raclette, Vacherin Fribourgeois, taleggio or a ripe brie or camembert — melting cheeses with a rind you can bake.
Boil the potatoes until only just tender so they keep their shape, salt carefully because the bacon and cheese are already salty, and serve it very hot with a sharp green salad and cornichons.
Tartiflette questions people ask
- What cheese is used in tartiflette?
- A whole reblochon from the Haute-Savoie, halved horizontally and laid rind-up on the potatoes.
- What can I use instead of reblochon?
- Raclette, Vacherin Fribourgeois, taleggio, or a ripe camembert or brie. Keep the rind on — it holds the cheese together as it melts.
