Sardine Festivals in Martigues

Once, by a stroke of luck, we found ourselves in Martigues – a city northwest of Marseille on the shores of a vast saltwater lake – where we stumbled upon a bustling and crowded festival. Tables and chairs were set up on what had been a car park, with every seat taken and long queues forming at the stalls. It turned out to be an annual celebration dedicated to sardines, and all the local fish lovers were joyfully partaking in the festivities. "How delightful", we thought, and wholeheartedly joined in the celebrations. One reason for the festival's popularity may have been the 10 euro menu: a plate of grilled sardines, a plastic cup of white wine and a slice of bread. Alternatively, in another version (moulinade, not sardinade), which we experienced a couple of years later in Brusc, moules marinières were cooked right on the waterfront in large cauldrons over open flames, served with chips and that same plastic cup of wine. We also noticed a charming detail: both the groups at the tables and the queue of people waiting for the next batch of sardines were engaged in light-hearted chit-chat. After a few glasses of wine, everyone was in high spirits and no one minded if someone joined the queue or conversation. The tables were so packed that many guests found themselves sitting on the edge of the waterfront next to the boats. We too embraced this scenario, feeling a unique sense of camaraderie and joy. Unfortunately, someone nearby ended up taking an unplanned dip in the water! A small and unassuming fish, dancing well into the night and an abundance of food – that's the essence of a lively French festival.